Living at the beach, I surfed the entire summer, every year from when I was ten through my twenties. Now after many years, and shoulder surgery, I have gotten back into it. My youngest son Jacob does it with me, and much like in my youth, I cant wait to get back to the ocean and feel that "Stoke".
This fall at one of the beaches that we go to, I met and photographed Jackie. I spoke to her about the photograph, and then did this drawing from it.